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Jewellery Metals Guide

Jewellery makers in the UK typically choose metals based on a balance of durability, finish, price point and how the material performs over time. Understanding the differences between commonly used metals is essential when building a consistent and commercially viable range.

Sterling silver is one of the most widely used materials, made from 92.5% pure silver alloyed with other metals to improve strength. It offers a bright finish, is easy to work with and is suitable for both simple and more complex jewellery designs. It is commonly used across findings, chains and finished jewellery, particularly where quality and longevity are important.

Gold plated sterling silver, often referred to as vermeil when it meets specific standards, provides a gold finish over a sterling silver base. This allows jewellery makers to offer a higher-end appearance while retaining the benefits of a precious metal underneath. It is widely used in demi-fine jewellery where both appearance and perceived value are important.

Gold filled materials differ from plating in that they contain a much thicker layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal, making them more durable over time. These are often chosen for designs where longer wear is required but solid gold is not commercially viable.

High quality plated metals are commonly used for fashion-led jewellery, offering a wide range of finishes at more accessible price points. The quality of plating can vary, so consistent supply and reliable standards are important when selecting these materials. In the UK and EU, plated jewellery should comply with REACH regulations, including restrictions on nickel release, ensuring products are safe for skin contact and suitable for retail.

Stainless steel, particularly 316L grade, is valued for its strength, corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties, making it especially suitable for earring components and everyday wear jewellery.

In practice, most jewellery makers use a combination of these materials across their collections, selecting metals based on the intended design, price point and customer expectations, while balancing quality with commercial viability.



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